St Jean Cap Ferrat might be a small village, but it has a big reputation. Since the 1900s it has been the vacation resort of the world’s elite, thanks to its perfect position on the coast between Nice and Monaco. This is old-school French Riviera glamour at its best. Beautiful Belle Epoque villas are tucked away in leafy private estates all over the peninsula with stunning views of the Mediterranean. There is a laid-back permanent holiday feel to the village, the port has some excellent restaurants, and the private beaches are ideal for spending a lazy summer evening out with friends.
The village centre is compact with one street full of cute boutiques selling designer clothes and decorative items for the house. Pick up some must-have purchases and then grab a bite to eat, because shopping definitely burns calories. Although there are less than 2000 permanent residents in St Jean, the town centre has some lovely restaurants and bars. Place Clemenceau is a sunny terrace in the heart of the village where you can sit overlooking the port while you eat. Look out for the sculptures and statues dotted amongst the restaurant tables which change regularly during the year. The Place is also where the Christmas market is held. With a different wintery theme every year, it’s well worth a look if you’re visiting in December.
Directly beneath the Place Clemenceau is the Port de Plaisance area with more shops and boutiques, and lots of places to eat. Very popular with charter guests coming ashore from the superyachts that line the quay, the port has a lively atmosphere. During the summer months, most restaurants open late into the evening, perfect for a leisurely meal or an after-dinner stroll with an ice cream. The port is also home to some of St Jean’s most glamorous but very discreet residents, a colony of brightly-coloured African Lovebirds. They go largely unnoticed by visitors, but if you look upwards into the palm trees and lampposts surrounding the quay, you’ll see these pretty little parrots cuddling up to each other overhead. According to local legend, a pair escaped from the now-closed St Jean zoo a few years ago and founded a colony which has been hanging out in the port ever since.
Just a few steps away from the port, there are 12 km of walking trails around the headland of the peninsula. The easiest trail is the Promenade Maurice Rouvier, a lovely, gentle stroll around some of the prettiest parts of St Jean. The walk takes about 30 minutes from St Jean to neighbouring Beaulieu Sur Mer and takes you past the marina, the bay and the Cros deï Pin beach. Keep an eye out for the pink villa on the seafront at the Beaulieu end of the walk. It has been variously owned or lived in by the Duchess of Marlborough, the King of Belgium, Charlie Chaplin and David Niven over the years and even starred in a Pink Panther film in the 1980s. Finish your walk with a drink on the terrace of the Royal Riviera Hotel in Beaulieu and enjoy the views over the Mediterranean and the mountains, all the way down to Monaco.
If you fancy something a bit more energetic, put on your sturdiest shoes and head for the Sentier Littoral, a coastal path which runs the whole length of St Jean Cap Ferrat. It takes roughly 3 hours to walk the entire path and can be tricky in parts, but it is definitely worth the effort. Take in some of the most breathtaking views of the Riviera surrounded by greenery and sweet-smelling jasmine flowers. Only a few minutes away from the main road to Monaco, standing by the Cap Ferrat lighthouse, it feels like a completely different world with a panoramic view from Nice to Italy.
If you prefer sunbathing to hiking not to worry, St Jean Cap Ferrat has got you covered, with three beautiful beaches and some fabulous private beach clubs. The beaches tend to be quieter than in nearby Beaulieu and Villefranche as they are tucked away on the peninsula well off the main road. Go for a swim in the sheltered cove of Plage de Passable or spend the afternoon on a sunlounger at the old-school Paloma Beach Club before enjoying a massage at their in-house spa. The beaches in St Jean are a fine shingle rather than sand so remember to take your beach shoes for the walk back to the sun lounger from the sea.